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bought the bike with the idea that the stator was bad figured id just change most everything inside the primary since it'll be opened up, I got everything apart and the compensator nut was loose, got the rest apart went to take the compensator shaft extension off and its not budging. Everything I've read claims it should just slide off fairly easily. I've tried pulling it, a bearing separator, tapped into the stator rotor and tried separating that way, tried everything with heat and wd-40 after soaking for days on end. i'm not sure if it is corrosion, loctite or heat siezed on there. im at my wits end with this and any help would be greatly appreciated.
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If it's that stuck, you will probably have to attach the bearing separator and then heat the thing red hot (oxy-acetylene) and then pull it. That much heat will ruin the heat treat, but at this point it's your best option. Use something to protect the center in the sprocket shaft when using pullers here. If you mess up that center, you will never be able to true up those flywheels. I use a copper penny (thanks, Uncle Sam).
Jim -
Thanks a lot I really appreciate it. My main concern is would too much heat damage anything beyond that? I figured I have to replace to main seal anyways, but could too much heat damage anything elseComment
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I see this guy had luck with... as Jim said, a bearing separator:
2017 Thread: How to remove stuck Compensator Sprocket Shaft Extension??
"Any advice ? This thing is stuck real good..."
"Went to Harbor freight tools and got this gear puller. Couple of spins and it was off. No hammering or chiseling"
I did try heating it before going to buy this puller, and it would not budge even after heating it
and this:
"In future if needed you can put a coin between puller end and shaft as a thread protector. Don't use zinc pennies, they are worthless. Nickels and quarters work well."
so had to look;
"So for the past 30 years, pennies have been made with an alloy comprised of 97.5% zinc and 2.5% copper, but pennies minted before 1982 are 95% copper and 5% zinc.
The price of copper has more than quadrupled over the past 10 years. So a penny produced before 1982 is worth 2.2 cents based on the metal it contains."
huh, 1982..."1982 was the first year of the reorganized Harley-Davidson where 13 employees, lead by the late Vaughn Beals, bought the company from AMF..."Comment
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I have the bearing separator even had to cut some off the tool itself because of clearance issues. I couldn’t get it to budge, tried a heat inductor and still no luck.Comment
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could try giving it a good whack square on the end to 'shock' the seized connection between the two parts, similar to tightening a stuck nut or bolt to break the seize to loosen it. then try pulling again with the heat.Comment
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Before you melt down your shafts with a torch try using Kroil penetrant, I prefer the original formula. Give it a good spraying wait a few minutes hook up your puller apply some tension maybe a little more spray than shock it and pull. Stuff works great. Available on Amazon or their website will tell you where you can buy it local or online, https://www.kroil.com/Comment
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Properly applied torch heat does not risk the shafts in any way, that being the point of applying the flame direct to the offending part.
Due to part shape and sometimes inductor wattage an inductor might not suit that job. I'd use an oxy-acetylene torch with a smallish heating tip not a big rosebud. (Used US-made torches are fine, I don't buy new torches, and every mechanic should have an outfit for the many useful tasks they do.)
A small hot oxy-acetylene flame is wise because you do not want to melt the glue holding the alternator magnets or weaken it. The large flame of a typical LP torch is not suitable. Since the engine is out you could carry it to someone with a torch.
Anti-seize (good shit like Jet Lube copper, not watery auto store crap) on the new parts will prevent future stickage.Comment
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