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How to convert your Evo chop to kickstart


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  • #16
    you keep your electric starter. The kicker just helps as a back up when the battery is too low for the electric motor to spin it over.
    I removed the VOES system and stock elec ignition and put points in mine (i prefer em for some reason).

    I bought the heavy duty kit from W&W cycles in Germany and its a little more involved than the cheap ebay kits, you need to remove the bearing trap door and bearings / retainer clips to get the new thicker bearing trapdoor on. I also had to slightly ream the inside of the kicker cover to allow for the clutch pulley mechanism to fully rotate and engage. Wasn't too much work but not a simple bolt on.

    However I use the kicker a lot and it is great, works well with the points ignition and its never slipped on me yet.


    • #17
      Did you get their high end kit? That's a nice one.!49839

      They also sell a generic style kit quite like the rest.

      I gave the recipe for doing them right and warned the poster about doing it cheap. Pointing out there's no functional necessity for the poster with the '94 since he has an OSGR is legitimate advice as is waiting to see if he really wants a kicker. A good kicker kit costs a lifetime of batteries. I don't assume everyone has the spare money I do and he may have been contemplating a cheap kit.

      I use points on my kicker Shovels and recommend them since they fail gracefully and are easy to fix by the roadside.


      • #18
        Originally posted by farmall
        if I felt compelled by stupidity to run one
        Thank you for calling my hopes and dreams a stupidity ��

        No but really, thanks for the input. I get what you're saying about possibly making a mistake but this is something I really want. Man I had to wait a couple months before I bought my bike to make sure I still wanted it. I think I was 24 when I first started thinking about owning one. It felt like YEARS to me! I'm only 25 and I plan on keeping it at least till i'm 40, so I think that's plenty of time to make up my mind on a final decision. After all those months it turned out I still wanted a bike, so I'm guessing I won't change my mind on having a kicker. But..

        I don't want to spend thousands of dollars on a new tranny and parts when the bike itself costs a couple grand. So I was going to just get some cheap kits to make it work, and if I love the kicker and use it often then somewhere down the line actually spend the money to get it done to where it doesn't fail with a couple kicks.

        I also am planning on buying a service manual, factory parts catalog is something new to me thought. I'll have to look into that, I didnt even know they existed. ��*♂️ I think I will also have to look into the points thing you guys are talking about.

        Thanks again, off I go to do more research! ✌


        • #19
          If you get a kit the (high end) one from W&W linked above looks like a very good one. When you are keeping a motorbike you dreamt of owning, you can save for what you really want! It is better to wait a year for quality than buy inferior parts and waste the money. You can find out how far that particular kit protrudes and ensure it won't foul your right ankle. The cheap ones (which are the same style as their lesser kit) stick out quite a bit. W&W should gladly send you better photos. Don't be shy to ask. They want happy customers.

          In the US I'd buy Baker but proximity to the maker matters and German quality standards tend to be excellent. Their cheaper kit may be made elsewhere as the designs are distinctive.

          You have plenty of time to refine what you want. The parts book and manual go together and as you study them much will become clear.

          An ebook copy of this will further your Evo education and you can rip it to .pdf free using Calibre if you like:

          calibre: The one stop solution for all your e-book needs. Comprehensive e-book software.

          Study is cheap and I predict you'll enjoy it! When you buy parts there's a saying "pay once, cry once". Buy the good stuff. The cost difference over time a trifle per year. There's no reason your machine shouldn't give 100K miles (I'll let you convert to kilometers) of service without requiring major work. Many of us have had ours for decades. You can ride them for a lifetime.
          Last edited by farmall; 05-01-2020, 7:38 PM.


          • #20
            No mine wasn't the Cannonball one, pretty much for the same reason as the OP suggests. I don't have the disposable income for a 1.5k kicker when I already have the elec start. I wanted it as a back up in case of emergency and also just for fun / novelty if im being honest.

            The kit I bought from W&W is this one - its less than a 3rd of the price of the Cannonball but is definitely more heavy duty than some of the ebay kits that don't replace the bearing trap door and sit the kicker gears on probably 3 threads of the end of the shaft. The cheaper ones you just remove the standard clutch cover and basically bolt it on top of the existing trap door. This thing has a door about 1" thick of solid billet and the gears are heavier and more robust. I took the opportunity to replace my bearings whilst i was in there.

            I have no doubt the more expensive kits may last longer and be more durable in the long run but 6 months after installing, I have no issues with this kit and it works well. Just my own experience with it and understand others may not like it.


            • #21
              So you are able to use electric and kick start?


              • #22
                I'm going to have to disagree with Tattoo on this one "point".
                Points are great, but try finding a dual point set up for a Harley. (Dual points = single fire) (single set of points = dual fire) confusing terminology, I know.

                Single fire saves the leg and the starter motor.
                (No "wasted spark" pushing backwards)
                So I recommend something like the Dyna-S-single-fire as an affordable and reliable kick friendly ignition. Even simpler than points and half the maintenance!
                But you have to run a single fire coil.
                Or two coils with dual plugged heads, but I digress.

                If you are "stuck" with the inferior solenoid,-on-primary starter setup (4 and 5 speeds came this way)... A kicker kit is definitely your friend.

                But yeah, the Softail denso starter setup don't need any help.

                If you want to strip her down and save weight chopper style...
                Ditch the starter, ditch the big batt and run an open primary.
                Your gonna need to start it somehow.
                I know, Maybe a kicker!

                My '76 shovel (a low comp, mild cammed stroker) has exactly that. A Vulcan single fire ignition and a second hand, non branded, kicker cover on a five speed. Mainshaft extension and all.
                I usually kick it, but if I'm feeling particularly lazy or in a great big hurry, I hit that button. (Feeler gauge on the solenoid trick)
                Been rocking it that way for years.


                • #23
                  Single fire has a hidden bonus. Since it's two coils in one package if one side fails the other (depending on failure) may remain intact and permit limping home.

                  It's also a bonus for the Britbike folks with aftermarket ignitions which fire wasted spark with any coil including stock.


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by mariofoo
                    So you are able to use electric and kick start?
                    Yes you are !! I would advise staying away from the Ultima Kicker conversion. I say this from experience
                    Last edited by DirtySouth; 05-21-2020, 8:44 PM.


                    • #25
                      What shit the bed on the Ultima?


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by DirtySouth
                        Yes you are !! I would advise staying away from the Ultima Kicker conversion. I say this from experience
                        I was actually looking at the w&w one that @Sugarcubes suggested. Sadly they are out of stock and probably have been for a while. Can't seem to find it anywhere else either.

                        Guess I'll just save some money up for the baker f5k kit.


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by DirtySouth
                          Yes you are !! I would advise staying away from the Ultima Kicker conversion. I say this from experience
                          What problems did you have with Ultima kicker kit? I found that a longer clutch cable would be needed and the clutch push rod needed to be longer. I thought it was well made but I couldn't find a phone number to call and the dealer I bought it from did not know the answer to either of these problems. I'm going to go with the W&W kit.


                          • #28
                            V-Twin has a few of their Sifton knock off kits in stock.
                            Don't know for how long.
                            SIFTON NO LONGER MAKES A FIVE SPEED KIKER KIT.
                            And that speaks to future parts availability...

                            I've installed the Sifton and the V-Twin units. The ones in daily service have no complaints.
                            The Ultima One looks pretty similar...
                            Have a used long nose style one my main ride for about ten years now. It takes four speed components and is still kickin' just fine.


                            • #29
                              Lil late but hopefully someone finds the info useful:

                              With regards to installing points on your Evo kicker, remember to gap your plugs to 0.028" (not per your factory manual which is 0.040" or thereabouts and intended for the higher output electronic ignition) Also, set your timing by locking the points cam lobe at full advance (there's a tool available which makes the job much easier) and check that both lobes are within 0.002" with your feeler gauge - GENTLY tap the hex-head locking screw in the required direction. You might want to opt for copper core plugs and wires too. With the correct technique you should be able to kick her into life with the first or second kick.


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