Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

First chop: 93 Sportster

Collapse

Desktop Ad Forum Top

Collapse

Mobile ad top forum

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by Clawhammercycle
    Sportsterpedia kind of addresses this also. that the factory manual kind of leaves things out... but basically loosely tighten everything then go around and do factory torque tightening... make sense?

    *edit. so I am looking at the PDF version of my manual and maybe I was looking at a different section, but the PDF version seems to have more detailed instructions. Ill go back and loosening everything up and retorque in order
    Do you have this PDF manual? >> Harley-Davidson Sportster 1986-2003 Service Manual
    It's pretty easy to find online, but I can also send you a download link no problem.

    The engine installation section starts on page 202. Just for fun here is the section and the associated pics.

    9. To install the rear engine mount assembly (Figure 26), perform the following:
    a. Install a flat washer on the two upper engine mount bolts and install the bolts through the frame and engine. Install the locknut and washer on the right bolt. Install the hex nut and washer on the left bolt. Do not install the battery ground cable at this time.

    b. Install a lockwasher and flat washer on the two lower engine mount bolts and install the bolts through the frame and thread into the engine hand-tight.

    10. Install the left and right lower front engine mount plates, bolts, washers and nuts as shown in Figure 22.
    Tighten the bolts hand-tight.

    11. Tighten the rear engine mounting bolts and nuts (Figure 26) to 25-30 ft.-lb. (34-41 N•m).

    12. Tighten the lower front engine bolts (A, Figure 30) to 25-30 ft.-lb. (34-41 N•m).
    Tighten the lower front frame bolts (B, Figure 30) to 25-30 ft.-lb. (34-41 N•m).

    13. Install the top center engine mount assembly (Figure 31) as follows:

    a. Install the top center engine mount bolts and washers through the engine mount.

    b. Place the shim (if used) onto the top center engine mount bolts.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	22.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	67.4 KB
ID:	1321076

    Click image for larger version

Name:	26.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	65.5 KB
ID:	1321077

    Click image for larger version

Name:	30.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	25.8 KB
ID:	1321078

    Comment


    • #17
      yep, that's the one I have. I have no idea what page I was looking at in my original manual but it didn't have all those details... IDK! its at home at the moment. but anyway, good lookin out. ill Go ahead and re-torque in order to be safe.

      Comment


      • #18
        Got the chain conversion done today. Easy peasy. Had to change put the transmission sprocket seal and spacer as well to make it line up proper.

        Got the sissy bar in the place i want it. Fender is pretty much there too. Tank is in place. Drilling holes for top hat bungs this week.

        Next weekend we weld the frame, sissybar/fender, oil tank tabs (if they come in time), and top hat bungs for gas tank. Things are movin along! Click image for larger version

Name:	F6D7C516-1A19-4731-9F4C-95CD99695FE8.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	141.8 KB
ID:	1321110

        Comment


        • #19
          Looking good man. Love a clean sporty chop

          Comment


          • #20
            Most welds are all done! All i can think of off the top of my head is brake tab and exhaust hanger eventually. Frame just rattle can primed/painted. Im going to have it powder coated eventually but i didnt want to ride it around raw.

            Next is wiring, oil lines, brake lines/bleed, and side project of painting the tins. Im happy to have that to work on. Going pale yellow and black flame outlines.Click image for larger version

Name:	CD7FA3FB-16FC-4E1D-A9A9-AC5CF4A3259B.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	142.8 KB
ID:	1321188

            Comment


            • #21
              Lookin good so far. I'm also in the process, but still ordering parts right now. I like the look of their horseshoe oil tank, but I ended up with a dished tank with a bolt on mount. I plan on welding the bracket to the frame and getting some kind of rubber bushings or something for when I bolt the oil tank onto the bracket.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by cdwillis
                Lookin good so far. I'm also in the process, but still ordering parts right now. I like the look of their horseshoe oil tank, but I ended up with a dished tank with a bolt on mount. I plan on welding the bracket to the frame and getting some kind of rubber bushings or something for when I bolt the oil tank onto the bracket.

                Nice. Well i went back a step… i had a friend of a friend do the frame welds. Said hes awas a pro of 8 year working experience. Was grinding down his welds and find he Left all sorts of porosity on each weld. I had a bad feeling so i took it to a fab shop and they confirmed my thoughts. Theyre grinding em down and rewelding for me. Should have the frame back next week.

                We bought a welder too. I can do better than what he did. Just wanted to leave the frame to a “pro”. Ill be takin care of any future welds.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Got the frame back from the fav shop. The welds got a grindin, cleaning, and reweldin. They look 1000x better.

                  Learned my lesson… dont take peoples resumes as proof of skill. Next time i will ask for photos of their work…

                  Anyway, bike is back together. Next is weding exhaust hanger, passenger pegs, and tackling the rear brake stay/bracket remodel.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Bikes comin along. Doing the oil lines today. Electrical is all in place aside from the ignition module. I am switching from a stock style brick to a Dyna 2000i to reduce wires and bulk. Once i get my cam cover gasket i will chop that up and install the ignition module and then the wiring will be done.

                    2 questions:

                    When welding an exhaust hanger for my rear pipe, what is the order of operations? If i tighten down the head clamps it seems it is pretty cocked out to the side. If i remember correctly from my stock setup, you bolt the pipe to the hanger loosely
                    While you tighten head clamps… anyway, any tips on getting the exhaust set up?

                    Second: what do yall think about just mounting my circuit breakers to the top of my oil tank with strong adhesive and velcro for maintenance purposes? It sits beteen the tank and the seat. Theres not really enough space to use any sort of hardware without drilling into the oil tank i think… lemme know!Click image for larger version

Name:	05F6E2A6-66F2-483E-82CF-E339E1E8BC3A.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	155.6 KB
ID:	1321407Click image for larger version

Name:	2208CCE8-8E60-4D7B-A03F-ABB511B6BD82.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	142.0 KB
ID:	1321408

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	85F95358-0E2D-438D-BEF3-CC73810F061A.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	120.3 KB
ID:	1321473Click image for larger version

Name:	B6711148-CC17-4D4F-BC22-A92746579E28.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	143.1 KB
ID:	1321474

                      Milled down the stock brake caliper bracket so that it can sit in the frame rather than dangle. Will post mounted photos later
                      Today.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	237B6A47-1BD4-41EB-A6BD-5EDC18361D21.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	140.5 KB
ID:	1321475

                        Everythings good to go! Finished up oil lines, electrical, and brakes.

                        Fired her up and oil pissed everywhere!!!
                        Anyone doing a cam cover chop keep in mind you may cut through a channel that goes i to the case and need to be tapped and plugged!!!

                        Not sure why i didn't see it come up in any of the write ups ive seen but a quick search after The leak brought me here and i learned you gotta tap and plug it.

                        Was an easy fix, and after was able to take about an hour ride! Only issue was the wires from my prism tailight got ripped right off due to vibrations… their LED wires seem way too delicate. I shrubk wrapped then and everything but ultimately it broke right at the LED. Thinking im gonna wire it and cover the connection in silicone this time? Idk seems too fragile for a chop. Any ideas welcome.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	7EBD7A3A-6FCA-4D9E-9084-25A69CD202CF.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	110.8 KB
ID:	1321484

                          Brake caliper is tucked nicely
                          Within the frame

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            My lowbrow hardtail has the same dip. It took a lot of fussing around to get it damn near straight.
                            I used a couple of ratchet straps to pull it apart with the motor fully installed.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Whats the link? I have a manual. But it doesnt say what order.
                              And thanks for writing that out! It helped me out

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                what brand is the seat you have?

                                Comment

                                300 mobile ad bottom forum

                                Collapse
                                Working...
                                X
                                😀
                                🥰
                                🤢
                                😎
                                😡
                                👍
                                👎